Tests to Create Facial Melasma

I have don't some test shots so I can use the right products and techniques to make my application of the facial melasma as realistic as possible I have also experimented with shape and size.

Foundation

I did the first test using a dark foundation from Screenface. It applied well and because it is fairly fluid it allowed me to work with the shape easily. I could put more in some areas and less in others to change us the tone and texture. I like this product a lot.

The only worry I have is that the foundation melts easily. I am concerned that if I don't powder it will shine too much in photographs and look fake. I also have concerns about powdering over it because I want the mark to have the same natural dew that skin has. I experimented to see the effect that powder had and I found that if I used a tiny bit on a small fluffy brush it creates a perfect balance between shiny and matte.

Foundation

Mixing Medium and Brown Powder

My second test used brown eyeshadow and MAC mixing medium. I mixed the two together to create a brown liquid and applied it to the skin. The overall effect was okay but it dries very matte and that is not the effect I want. I haven't really worked with MAC mixing medium a lot so I'm a bit apprehensive about using it because I don't know how it's going to behave under studio lights etc. Also, if its anything like Illamasqua's Sealing Gel it might crack when it dries and I need a product that is a lot more movable.

Mixing medium and brown powder

I really like the foundation test so I am going to use this in my final image. It moves well with the face and behaves itself under studio lights as long as I powder softly over it. Another good thing I've found about it is that you don't have to use a lot of product because it goes a long way.

I have also tested shapes while I was testing products. I like the bigger shape and like that it goes over the eye. i will have to keep it to the outside of the eye so that it doest smudge into creases as i don't think even powder could save that.

The smaller mark doesn't look dramatic enough - it looks like an accident where as the big mark is making a point that the shoot is showcasing it. So I will use the foundation and powder to create a large mark with soft edges that goes around the eye like the facechart below.